Sangiovese – The Blood of Jupiter.

Think of Tuscan wines, and the first thought that will come to mind will be of a full-bodied, rich red wine, more likely than not paired with a Bistecca alla Fiorentina or a Ragù di Cinghiale. This perception is tied in no small part to Sangiovese; a grape cultivated across central Italy but extensively in Tuscany. Here, it serves as the most important element to some of Italy’s most revered wines such as Chianti Classico, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano a and Brunello di Montalcino.

The claims that it was first cultivated by the Etruscans from wild vines might be false, but the name ‘Sangiovese’ or ‘Blood of Jupiter’ gives it a certain élan that can’t be denied. It was by the 1700s that Sangiovese already had a stronghold in Tuscany, with Cosimo Trinci in 1738 noting that Sangiovese was an excellent blending grape. Dovetailing with the increasing prominence of Chianti, Sangiovese had become the go-to grape in the region by the 1900s.

Many other Italian regions have a striking diversity of grape varieties, even within a small geographic area. Yet in Tuscany, Sangiovese seems to have become a blanket in much the same way that the vineyards cover the undulating landscape. It is used in 25 different appellations, be those as a single variety or in a blend with some of the most emblematic being Chianti, Brunello di Montalcino and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano.|

This is in part tied to the grape’s versatility. For Sangiovese is a variety that responds to and reflect the terroir where it is cultivated. In an area such as Chianti, this is of utmost importance in creating distinctions between wines that are made to highly regimented standards. This is exemplified at Carpineta Fontalpino where they make two cuvees from two vineyards of very different terroirs. The Vigna Montaparto is made from vines planted on calcareous soil and has a silky elegance while for the bolder, richer Vigna Dofana , sandy-clay soil is the differentiating factor. Check Fattoria Carpineto Fontalpino history here

I Mandorli is located towards the coastline, in the hills between Bolgheri and Piombino. When they planted their vineyards in 2004 to 2005, they decided to plant the Sangiovese with a south-easterly exposure towards the ‘Metallifere Hills’ on account of the soil’s richness in clay, schists and sedimentary rocks together with an altitude of 300 metres. In their 100% Sangiovese, the Vigna alla Sughera, these factors are evident in the notes of Mediterranean scrub and herbs together with the clean, harmonious tannins. Meanwhile, in the I Mandorli Rosso, where Sangiovese is blended with Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon, the herbaceous freshness of the Sangiovese is exacerbated through an added depth of cedar and cherry. Check I Mandorli here

Another producer beyond those in Chianti that demonstrates the versatility of Sangiovese is Giodo. Located in Montalcino with vines located in the Brunello denomination, the estate comprises eight Sangiovese clones that are handled with meticulous attention to detail. These clones, also known as Prugnolo Gentile, have thicker skinned berries which lead to wines with bold fruit flavours, high tannins and high acidity. For their Brunello, two and a half years maturation in oak followed by additional time in concrete vats and 18 months ageing in bottle allows for the developed expression of a Sangiovese of great depth and intensity. That Sangiovese is the key player here (as much as the terroir is important) is subtly reflected in the label with a stylised man that is meant to represent Sangiovese supporting the world of wine because ‘this grape variety is the sole interpreter in Montalcino’

This perspective is echoed by another producer in the Montalcino: Il Paradiso di Frassina. Set in the Val d’Orcia, the musical philosophy employed here is a topic for another day. In the case of their Gea, Sangiovese grapes harvested from around Montosoli with a North to North-West exposure are the focus. These are used to create an intense ruby hued wine with a neat, harmonious character.

That observation cannot lead anywhere other than a return to Chianti; an appellation where Sangiovese is unapologetically and inherently at its core. In this case, there can be no greater example than Castello di Monsanto. This historic estate was established six decades ago and ever since has been committed to the precise cultivation of Sangiovese ever since. Great attention is paid to the soil, the humidity, the temperature and how these come to bear upon the carefully chosen vineyards (over 72 hectares) where Castello di Monsanto cultivates Sangiovese. For instance, the Il Poggio DOCG Riserva is produced with grapes from the eponymous vineyard and follows a principle of long ageing to ‘bring out Sangiovese’s strength and energy’. While in the case of the Fabrizio Bianchi Rosato, the youngest Sangiovese wines are used for a short maceration to create a floral wines with the notes of wild strawberry and a subtle minerality portraying those Sangiovese traits.

In the case of Buccia Nera, Sangiovese is fundamental to the more traditional element of the vineyard’s production in the hills outside Arezzo, namely the Podere della Filandra. While available in a conventional bottle, they also bottle their Chianti Classico in the fiaschi used since the 1500s across the Chianti appellation. Returning to this bottling method is a way to show a commitment to the winemaking traditions of the area; and Sangiovese

Collectively, these producers show the role that terroir plays in bringing out the characteristics of Sangiovese. Be that a strength and energy or a silky elegance or a playful fruitiness, it is clear that Sangiovese is certainly the Blood of Jupiter, and in all the Blood Types.

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